Skin is a complex organ, designed to be a barrier between the inner biologic environment & the outside environment. Without this protection the inner organisms would be subject to toxins & pollution, temperature changes & solar radiation. In order to deliver ingredients to the inside cells of the skin, this barrier must be overcome.
The stratum corneum (outermost layer of the skin) , consists of layers of flattened keratinocytes and is designed to be difficult to penetrate – it’s almost like a raincoat protects you from getting wet. In skincare we look at ways to bypass this waterproof layer to deliver actives to various skin depths, where they are most effective.
The skin consists of 3 main entry sites for deeper delivery into the skin cells: Pores, hair follicles & the spaces between the cells that consist of an oil/water fluid matrix.
For a product to be effective, it needs to be formulated in a way that it’s beneficial actives are delivered to the inside of the skin cells. These products are developed with biochemical skill & involve much more than just mixing ingredients together. Products need to be prepared at specific temperatures, PH’s & order so that they form the proper end product.
Skin cells have borders composed of lipid (oil) soluble membranes. The interior of these cells is mostly water, and for a substance to remain there and have an active result it needs to be water soluble. A cosmetic product must therefore be made up of a combination of water & oil to pass through the membrane and into the inside of a cell where their desired activity can take place. And then still, only certain oils (like medium chain triglycerides for example) with a specific chemical profile will pass through cell membranes to the inside of the cell. Effective cosmeceutical design is a complex process which involves a good knowledge of the physiology of these cells & biochemistry.
Collagen is the main supportive structural protein in the skin. Increasing skin collagen is critical in helping to improve aging skin. As we age collagen production decreases. The induction of collagen synthesis in skin cells requires a much more complex approach than simply applying collagen onto the skin. Particle size plays a major role in it’s ability to penetrate the skin, and collagen is just too large a size particle to do that. L’abeille’s Collagen Boosting Concentrate https://labeille.co.za/product/collagen-boosting-concentrate/ is designed & formulated specifically with an oil/water based emulsion to be able to deliver the correct percentage of actives into the cell, where they can do their work to stimulate & maintain metabolic functions in the cell. The particle is of such a low molecular weight that is it able to penetrate deep enough into the cells where it has its effect. This helps with the healthy functioning of the cell and therefore increases & stimulates the cells natural production of collagen to maintain a youthful skin. Increased collagen production results in: redensifying of the epidermis, improved elasticity, increased hydration & skin smoothness, and provides superior anti-wrinkle benefits.
It is also important to apply an occlusive layer onto the skin at the end of your regime. This seals the skin, allowing for maximum product penetration and efficacy. L’abeille oil based serums https://labeille.co.za/product/glow-intense-serum/ & pressed serums are applied after any L’abeille concentrate to provide this occlusive layer and provide delivery enhancement of our oil/water emulsion based concentrates, which contain the concentrated water based actives that have effect on the biological activity inside the cells. Maintaining the cells healthy metabolic function, is key to a results driven cosmeceutical products benefits & results.